Copenhagen’s Dark Star of Contemporary Fashion
In the world of contemporary menswear, where maximalism often reigns supreme, Heliot Emil stands apart as a beacon of refined minimalism with a futuristic edge. Founded by brothers Julius and Victor Juul in Copenhagen, Denmark, this avant-garde label has rapidly ascended from underground favorite to Paris Fashion Week mainstay, earning critical acclaim from fashion industry heavyweights like Hypebeast, Highsnobiety, Vogue Scandinavia, and WWD.
Named after the founders’ great-grandfather, Heliot Emil made its debut at Milan Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2017, and since then, the brand has been on an unstoppable trajectory, recognized as one of the most provocative in the game Highsnobiety. What sets Heliot Emil apart isn’t just its striking monochromatic aesthetic or innovative use of hardware—it’s the brand’s unwavering commitment to exploring the intersection of form, function, and the future of fashion itself.
The Heliot Emil Aesthetic: Where Brutalism Meets High Fashion
A Monochromatic Vision
Heliot Emil’s aesthetic is characterized by its severe, almost brutalist juxtaposition of utilitarianism, streetwear and tailoring in a largely monochromatic universe WWD. The brand’s signature palette of black, gray, silver, and stone creates a canvas for experimentation with texture, silhouette, and innovative construction techniques.
Highsnobiety Commerce Content Curator Rhianna Matthews describes the brand as her favorite, praising that “they have a perfect fit and shape, plus they use high-quality materials and luxurious detailing without being too heavy on your wallet” Highsnobiety.
Experimental Approach to Design
What truly distinguishes Heliot Emil from other Scandinavian minimalist brands is its experimental approach. According to Highsnobiety, the brand has “a penchant for dark, unsavory references, inside-out garments, contrast stitching, lots of straps, bondage, asymmetrical fixtures, semi-transparent materials, and metallic hardware such as rock-climbing carabiners” Highsnobiety. The result is a series of futuristic, industrial silhouettes that feel simultaneously dystopian and aspirational.
The Impression noted that “Juul’s version is cleaner and more ‘techy’ than Owen’s signature beautifully dystopian underworld” The Impression, positioning Heliot Emil as a distinct voice in the Rick Owens-adjacent universe of avant-garde fashion.
Critical Acclaim: What Fashion Media Is Saying About Heliot Emil
Paris Fashion Week Dominance
Heliot Emil’s presence at Paris Fashion Week has become increasingly anticipated. For their Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Hypebeast reported that the brand presented lightweight vented constructions and molten metal accessories fit for rising temperatures Hypebeast, showcasing the label’s ability to merge aesthetic innovation with functional design.
WWD described their Fall 2023 collection as “a solid collection for those who buy into the clans of Rick Owens, aka the monotones and the avant-garde” WWD, highlighting how the brand has carved out its own niche within the luxury fashion ecosystem.
Vogue Scandinavia’s Perspective
Vogue Scandinavia praised the brand’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, noting that creative director Julius Juul’s approach to AI integration was “pleasingly inevitable” given the brand’s minimal futurism aesthetic Vogue Scandinavia. The publication described how Heliot Emil successfully distilled its identity through technological experimentation while maintaining its core DNA.
Hypebeast’s Recognition
Hypebeast emphasized that “at first glance Heliot Emil might look like any other Scandinavian brand, but upon closer inspection it’s anything but” Highsnobiety, pointing to the brand’s memorable Fall/Winter 2023 show where models walked the runway literally engulfed in flames—a spectacular demonstration of the brand’s commitment to pushing boundaries.
Innovation and Technology: Heliot Emil’s Forward-Thinking Approach
AI Integration and Design
One of the most fascinating aspects of Heliot Emil’s recent evolution has been its embrace of artificial intelligence in the design process. For Spring/Summer 2024, Julius Juul fed the brand’s past work into a computer and embarked on “the challenging task of editing and deciphering the machine’s interpretations of their unique design DNAs, ultimately translating them into wearable garments” My Face Hunter.
The experiment resulted in unexpected softness and increased use of draping, demonstrating that technology can reveal new dimensions within an intentional brand Kendam. This willingness to experiment with cutting-edge technology while maintaining artistic integrity exemplifies Heliot Emil’s philosophy of looking forward rather than backward.
Collaborations with Technical Innovators
Heliot Emil’s ongoing collaboration with Alpinestars, an Italian brand that makes protective gear for motorsports, exemplifies the label’s commitment to looking at “extraneous innovations, happening outside of fashion” Vogue Scandinavia. By incorporating fireproof materials and soft armor from the motorsports world, the brand creates garments that serve as both physical and emotional protection.
For Spring/Summer 2025, Heliot Emil unveiled collaborations with PUMA and STACCATO, combining utilitarian design with sportswear expertise jtdapperfashionweek, further cementing its reputation as a brand that seamlessly blends fashion with function.
The Heliot Emil Customer: Who Wears the Brand?
A Cult Following
Fashion publication The Impression noted that “the Danish duo have clearly gathered quite the cult following,” with crowds of fans clad in uniform black attending their shows The Impression. This dedicated fanbase appreciates the brand’s commitment to quality, innovation, and uncompromising aesthetic vision.
Celebrity and Industry Recognition
While Heliot Emil maintains an underground sensibility, the brand has gained recognition from fashion insiders and celebrities alike. The brand has been rated 4.5 out of 5 stars by customers, with users praising its unique design, custom materials, attention to detail, and experimental approach Tenereteam.
Signature Pieces and Collections
Hardware and Construction Details
The devil is in the details with Heliot Emil. The brand is known for its usage of custom textiles, including its signature metal liquid fabric, and cutout pieces that have a graceful presentation on the body Hypebeast. Each hardware detail is created from the ground up with both form and function in mind, resulting in pieces that are as sculptural as they are wearable.
Recent Collections
The Fall/Winter 2024 collection, titled “Shelter,” explored the concept of protection through contrasting hard and soft elements, with models wearing razor-sharp suits, body-con shapes with cutouts, and oversize jackets Hypebeast. The collection featured gleaming foil effects and metal hardware that furthered the futuristic aesthetic.
Standout pieces included outerwear crafted with meticulous attention to detail, with Julius Juul’s focus shifting towards upgrading and softening fabrications rather than pursuing avant-garde silhouettes Kendam.
Where to Buy Heliot Emil
For those looking to invest in Heliot Emil pieces, the brand is available through select high-end retailers globally and through their official website at heliotemil.com. The brand is stocked at prestigious locations including GR8 in Tokyo, VFILES in New York, Opening Ceremony in LA and NYC, and various European boutiques.
The Future of Heliot Emil: What’s Next?
As Heliot Emil continues to evolve, the brand shows no signs of compromising its vision. Julius Juul emphasizes that “for us, it’s always been about trying new innovations. We always try to incorporate new things, whether it’s 3D printing or staging a digital show” My Face Hunter.
With each collection, Heliot Emil pushes the boundaries of what contemporary menswear can be, balancing commercial viability with artistic experimentation. The brand’s commitment to sustainability, technical innovation, and uncompromising aesthetic vision positions it as one of the most exciting labels to watch in the coming years.
Conclusion: Why Heliot Emil Matters
In an era where fast fashion dominates and trends change overnight, Heliot Emil represents something rare: a brand with a clear vision, unwavering commitment to quality, and the courage to experiment with the future of fashion. Whether you’re a fashion enthusiast, a design professional, or simply someone who appreciates thoughtfully crafted clothing, Heliot Emil offers a glimpse into what the future of menswear could—and should—look like.
From its minimalist Scandinavian roots to its futuristic hardware-heavy aesthetic, from AI experimentation to motorsports collaboration, Heliot Emil continues to redefine what it means to create contemporary luxury fashion. Visit Heliot Emil’s official website to explore their latest collections and join the growing community of fashion-forward individuals who have made this Danish label one of the most talked-about brands in contemporary menswear.
Keywords: Heliot Emil, Danish fashion brand, Copenhagen menswear, minimalist fashion, Julius Juul, Victor Juul, Paris Fashion Week, Scandinavian design, avant-garde menswear, contemporary fashion, luxury streetwear, futuristic fashion, Heliot Emil review